The Sartoria Ge.Ca, a Neapolitan made-to-measure atelier in Naples, Italy, was founded in 2002 by Mr. Gennaro Giannatiempo with the collaboration of Mr. Carmine Franco, who has been exuberantly passionate about the art of Neapolitan tailoring and craftsmanship. Their shared dedication to preserving the traditional techniques and attention to detail that define Neapolitan tailoring has earned Sartoria Ge.Ca a reputation for producing some of the finest made-to-measure suits in the region. With a focus on creating garments that perfectly complement each client's individual style and physique, the atelier has become a go-to destination for those seeking timeless elegance and unparalleled quality in their wardrobe.
However, Mr. Gennaro Giannatiempo had been learning the craft with his father's guidance since his adolescence. The master couturier, Mr. Giuseppe Giannatiempo, intended to be eminent in his craft among the other legendary artisans in his fifty years of proficiency in Neapolitan tailoring, though his legacy of craftsmanship had been passed down to his son, Mr. Gennaro Giannatiempo. Yet his perseverance to enhance his extensive knowledge of craft and design persuaded him to join the Fashion Academy of Naples, where he learned and specialised in the craft of pattern making.
With his newfound expertise in pattern making, Mr. Gennaro Giannatiempo was able to bring a fresh perspective to the family business. His innovative designs and attention to detail quickly gained recognition in the sartorial world, allowing him to establish his own unique style while still honouring his father's legacy. Today, he continues to push the boundaries of tailoring, combining traditional techniques with modern trends to create truly exceptional garments.
Apparently, the Italian flair in the essence of tailoring (Bespoke, MTM) is invariably significant and distinguished in terms of the cut, the construction method, and the garment's morphology. However, essentially, the construction of the garment is relatively distinctive (environmentally) between the Northern and Southern Italian styles, which means the Northern Italian style has quite a structured silhouette and emphasises the craftsmanship and authenticity of Roman tailoring, whereas the Southern Italian style delineates the nonchalance, charismatic look, and softly structured silhouette.
Indeed, the Southern Italian style—significantly, the Neapolitan style of tailoring—is practically cohesive with their culture and enunciates the tradition of craftsmanship, which is obviously eminent, and the conservative method of tailoring in Naples. Predominantly, the Neapolitan tailored suits have been entirely crafted (the cut and stitches) by hand with soft construction; therefore, having a Neapolitan style of suit, blazer, or sport coat in the wardrobe is the most desirable thing for men who are sartorially influenced; however, the design aspect of the suit is invariably distinguished with its exquisite elements and intricate hand stitches. These hand stitches not only add a unique touch to the suit but also contribute to its durability and longevity. Additionally, the Neapolitan style is known for its relaxed and comfortable fit, making it a popular choice for those who prioritise both style and comfort in their wardrobe.
Nevertheless, in the Sartoria Ge.Ca, they would craft and design each and every garment like a suit, jacket, blazer, sport coat, etc. in a way that the traditional Neapolitan method of tailoring, in which they drew the pattern and cut it, stitched it by hand, and paid meticulous attention to every detail, This level of craftsmanship ensures that each piece is unique and of the highest quality. Moreover, the use of luxurious fabrics and precise measurements further enhances the fit and the delicacy of the suit. significantly the suit jacket or sport coat with a higher armhole and soft shoulders (Spalla Camicia), which means there is no padding in the shoulders to emphasise softness (the natural shoulders), and also that the sleeve head has been stitched into the armhole of the suit jacket that looks similar to the shirt shoulders.
and particularly the sleeve heads are often puckered (Repeccha), i.e., relatively, the larger circumference sleeve heads would have been stitched into the smaller armhole of the suit jacket in order to create nice pleats on the sleeve heads; also called "manica a mappina", as are the cuff (surgeons cuffs) buttons, which are often overlapping each other (kissing buttons). Besides, the lapels are relatively wider, with a higher gorge line along with a beautiful lapel roll. Also, the pick stitches on the edge of the lapels and the breast pocket would add a bit more flair to the suit jacket, as well as nice hand-sewn buttonholes and horn buttons, giving the suit jacket a luxurious and refined appearance. Additionally, the suit jacket or sport coat would feature a double vent at the back, which is relatively higher for added comfort and ease of movement. These meticulous details and craftsmanship contribute to the overall elegance and daintiness of the suit.
However, the curved welt breast pocket (Barchetta) is also one of the iconic details of the Neapolitan suit jacket or sport coat, which manifests the actual shape of the boat. This unique pocket design adds a touch of whimsy and personality to the garment, showcasing the Neapolitan tradition of incorporating artistic elements into their tailoring. It serves as a subtle nod to the region's rich maritime history and adds an extra layer of charm to the suit jacket or sport coat.
Moreover, the interlinings are primarily made of natural fibres, which are made of cotton, linen, and horse hair. These interlinings (floating canvas) provide structure and shape to the jacket, ensuring a perfect fit and allowing the fabric to drape elegantly. The use of natural fibres also allows for breathability, keeping the wearer comfortable in any climate. Additionally, the Neapolitan suit jacket or sport coat often features a soft shoulder construction, allowing for a more relaxed and natural drape.
The Sartoria Ge.Ca has been offering exceptional client service to their Italian and international clients. They pride themselves on their attention to detail and personalised approach, ensuring that each client's needs and preferences are met. With their expertise in traditional tailoring techniques and commitment to quality, Sartoria Ge.Ca has become a trusted destination for those seeking the finest Neapolitan craftsmanship in their garments.
