Indeed, a piece of fabric that is predominantly made of linen, cotton, and horsehair is sewn in between the beautiful (silk or cupro) lining and the actual fabric of the jacket. Essentially, the interlinings (canvas) are categorised into two methods: the half canvas and the full canvas. On the contrary, the method of fussing, which is the kind of synthetic material that has been pressed (glued) along with the fabric of the garment with a heat presser,
However, this method of interlining is predominantly used among ready-to-wear (RTW) suitmakers, which allows them to produce on a mass scale cost-effectively, thus the value of ready-to-wear suits is relatively inexpensive, whereas some exclusive ready-to-wear suit interlinings are still made with natural canvas and have a higher value, although the consequence of this method of interlining is that it is less breathable and flexible.
Therefore, the floating canvas (natural canvas) in the suit jacket is literally moving along with your body movement and is breathable as well, which allows you to feel the cosiness while wearing it, whether it's a suit jacket, blazer, or a sport coat. Nevertheless, it's meant to create a nice drape on the chest, a nice roll on the lapel, a spotless collar, and overall, a beautiful (structured) silhouette on the jacket.
Apparently, the tailor would manipulate the canvas with intricate hand stitches on it (which is called pad stitching) to get the perfect and actual shape; thus, it is also a conventional and eminent detail in the bespoke and made-to-measure suit jacket construction.
However, it's quite authentic and quintessential. As I said earlier, it could be a half canvas, which means the canvas extends from the shoulder line to about halfway down to the front panel of the suit jacket; conversely, the full canvas is the canvas that has been placed on the entire front panel of the suit jacket (till down to the hem), which is also relatively expensive and apex. Besides, it determines the longevity of the suit jacket as well.
For this reason, whether you order a new suit, blazer, or sport coat, I advise that you be aware of the interlining. The interlining plays a crucial role in the overall structure and drape of the garment. It affects how well the suit jacket retains its shape and resists wrinkling. Additionally, understanding the type of interlining used can help you make an informed decision based on your personal preferences and desired level of quality.
