Whether it's a suit jacket, blazer, or sport coat, the shoulders and sleeve heads are consistently significant and distinguished in Italian tailoring. As I wrote in my previous article (click here), the method of construction is relatively distinct between the northern and southern Italian styles of tailoring. However, the Southern Italian method of shoulder construction is relatively softer than the Northern Italian, which means literally no padding on the shoulders of the suit jacket and no roped sleeve heads. To delineate the nonchalance and significance of the Southern Italian style.
The absence of padding on the shoulders of the suit jacket gives it a more relaxed and natural drape, allowing for greater freedom of movement. This softer construction also lends itself to a more casual and effortless aesthetic, reflecting the laid-back elegance that is characteristic of Southern Italian style.
However, sleeve heads are the pivotal part on the shoulders of the suit jacket, which is why the roped sleeve heads emphasise the structured look and also create a masculine effect on the wearer. Besides, it adds a touch of formality and sophistication to the suit jacket, making it suitable for more formal occasions. Thus, you could see it more often in the British-tailored suit jacket. Additionally, they help create a sharper silhouette, enhancing the overall tailored appearance of the garment.
Conversely, in the Italian tailored suit jacket, sleeve heads are meant to have a delicate and refined look, giving the jacket a softer and more relaxed look. This design choice reflects the Italian approach to tailoring, which prioritises comfort and ease of movement. The subtle sleeve heads in an Italian suit jacket also contribute to a more casual and effortless style, making it suitable for both formal and informal occasions.
The Italian suit jacket also has rather softly rolled (rise-up) sleeve heads, which is quite similar to the English roped sleeve heads that they called "Con Rollino." The excessive fabric on the head of the sleeves has been stretched with a heated presser and rolled by hand in order to get a perfect, soft, and beautiful shape. The "Con Rollino" technique gives the jacket a touch of structure and elegance, creating a unique blend of Italian and English tailoring. This feature adds a sophisticated touch to the overall look, making it a versatile choice for various settings and personal styles.
Whereas, the "Spalla Camicia" is another type of sleeve head that is quite similar to the shirt shoulder (soft sleeve head). The sleeve head has been stitched into the armhole of the suit jacket, often with puckering (small pleats on the sleeve heads). which is quite familiar with southern Italian tailoring. This style of sleeve head creates a more relaxed and casual look, perfect for a laid-back yet polished appearance. It is commonly seen in Neapolitan tailoring, adding a touch of effortless elegance to the suit jacket. Overall, the combination of these two distinct sleeve head styles showcases the craftsmanship and attention to detail that Italian tailoring is renowned for.