Why should we misspend our hard-earned money on substandard shoes?

We always are aware of spending money to buy quality products isn't it, but somehow we disregard choosing quality products in some circumstances; perhaps we don't have extensive knowledge about that products; therefore, we are mesmerized by captivating brand advertisements and the decorative look of the product as well.

For instance, some of us when going to buy a pair of ready-to-wear shoes; predominantly just look at the brand and the price of the shoes; nevertheless, barely think about the craftsmanship, quality and construction of the shoes.

Why should we misspend our hard-earned money on substandard shoes?

Therefore, in this article, I would like to share with you about the welt which is a crucial part of constructing quality shoes.

The welt is a stripe of leather that is sewn around the circumference of the upper leather. This would assist in the process of constructing quality shoes, and also it determines the longevity and durability of the shoes.

In terms of constructing quality shoes, comparatively, there are four methods; hand welt, Goodyear welt, Blake stitch, and storm welt.

The hand welt is a conventional method of constructing shoes and it is entirely stitched by hand with traditional shoemaking tools, the longevity of the hand welt shoes would come for decades even generations as long as it is well maintained, and also could repair (resole) the outsole of the shoe, yet it correlates with bespoke shoemaking.

Actually, placing the insole in the upper then begin lasting the upper leather (tightly pull off the upper leather then nailing on the last), taking a thin stripe of leather and stitching around on the circumference of the upper leather and trim it afterwards to fill the void (which is the welt would create the void bitween insole and outsole) with a wooden shank (the cork) or pieces of leather because it would give the flexibility and agility when you wear the shoe, also it would resist the water as well.

After that, cementing the outsole (glued) then slightly slicing a millimetre thickness on the outsole and opening it; then stitching the outsole onto the welt then closing it down so it is hidden on the bottom of the shoe (invisible channel stitching) then the heel has been attached to the lout sole of the shoe.

Relatively, the Goodyear welt methods are entirely made by the machine, an alternative to the traditional hand welting method, however, the name Goodyear is derived from the name of the American self-taught chemist and manufacturing engineer Charles Goodyear who invented the welting machine in 1869.

Comparatively, the Goodyear welted shoes are more water-resistant and could comfortably repair and resole the shoe, and it is more familiar among English shoemakers (Bespoke, Made to order).

However, the blake stitch is the most common method for constructing the sole; which means there is no welt and the insole is stitched to the upper and the outsole is directly attached (glued) together then begins to stitch by machine; through the outsole (visible stitches), the slimmer profile of the shoe which allows more flexibility and contentment to the wearer, and this method of construction is renowned among Italian shoemakers.

Nevertheless, the storm welt is also known as the "Norwegian welt", comparatively, this method of construction is quite similar to the Goodyear welt construction, but it looks a bit wider because uses a wider leather rim that folds it upwards against the upper to prevent from the water entering the shoe, and the stitches hold together the upper, welt, and the insole is visible on the outside of the shoe.

This method of construction is mostly used to make boots and semi-formal shoes because it's more water-resistant than the other method of construction; in terms of look, it creates a sort of casual and rough look and certainly, it distinguishes.

PS: In terms of choosing the outsole of the shoe we have two options such as a leather sole/ rubber sole, relatively the leather sole would reveal a high level of formality and an elegant look to the shoe. 

Therefore, I hope you get some knowledge about the quality of the shoe construction and craftsmanship, also it would help when you buy your next pair of shoes.

Cheers gentleman