If you step into the bespoke tailoring houses; chiefly the consultation cordially begins with a Master Tailor or perhaps with the Head-Cutter; those who would able to meticulously measure, and analyse the morphology of your body to draft and create the paper pattern of the garment that you have commissioned, whether it might be a suit, sport coat, dinner jacket, trousers, etc.
Apparently, they are (master tailors, and cutters) distinguished according to their mastery. The Cutter would be able to measure and analyse the posture of your body to draft and create the paper pattern according to the measurements; cut the fabric then send it to the tailor, whereas the cutter also has the knowledge of stitching and the structural part of the suit as well.
On the other hand, the Master Tailor is supposed to have complete knowledge of suit making, which begins in the client's consultation, taking measurements and analysing the morphology of the body, pattern making, cutting, stitching also the structural part of the suit like canvasing, shoulder padding and wadding, and pressing, which allows creates the beautiful silhouette to the suit jacket.
However, in bespoke tailoring, each and every stitch is predominantly done by hand, especially the buttonholes, interlining and lining, and the lapel of the jacket, significantly The pick stitch is the iconic detail on the bespoke (suit) jacket discernible on the edges of the lapels, chest pocket and hip pocket flaps; which I perceive the authenticity of the craftsmanship,
Although the processes of bespoke suit-making involve different types and enormous amounts of hand stitches to make one suit, therefore, the Master Tailor who has prolific knowledge of the method of stitching and the morphology of the suit; would be able to make the whole suit by hand impeccably.
Nevertheless, The house of style in suit making is relatively distinguished with scrupulous craftsmanship and the heritage of tailoring, whether it is English, Italian (Neapolitan, Florentine), French or American, however, perhaps if you look at the bespoke suits from the world's renowned bespoke tailoring houses in Savile Row, London; predominantly they're distinguished with their cut and the construction of the suit, for instance, Henry Poole & Co Est-1806, Huntsman Est -1849, Anderson & Sheppard Est-1906.
Apparently, In the bespoke tailoring house, they have specialized and accomplished craftsmen who contribute to making the whole suit, The fabric has been cut and then sent to the craftsmen (Tailors) who have specialized in making the specific garment; namely, the coat maker, waistcoat maker, and trouser maker, where the suit has been starting its journey through the basting stitch which means the suit is temporarily stitched together by basting thread for the first fitting; which we also called the basted fitting.
