Bespoke/ MTM/ MTO/ RTW (suits, shirts, ties, shoes, accessories, and cologne); what are the distinguished differences between them?


The Bespoke means; quintessential of individuality and the manner of craftsmanship, opulence and elegance. Actually, the word bespoke is an adjective (contemporary usage) and it has evolved from the verb be speak "to speak for something".

Indeed, the term Bespoke contributes to various types of productions such as automobiles, arms productions, etc, for instance, Rolls Royce, Bentley, and James Purdey& sons (British gunmaker in London), although predominantly the term Bespoke contributes to the world of tailoring and shoe-making productions, especially among the British tailors and shoemakers. Back in the years, Bespoke and Made-To-Measure (MTM) are at the most familiar to people, then when people get admired by fashion and this is the beginning of Made-To-Order (MTO) and Ready-To-Wear (RTW) productions.

However, in this article, I would like to tell you about the distinguished dereference bitween the term Bespoke, Made-To-Measure, Made-To-Order, and Ready-To-Wear.

Literally, I love the word Bespoke and the craftsmanship; do you know what the real essence of bespoke tailoring is?

The beautiful correlation between the master tailor (head cutter/ cutter) and the client; it's really admirable, and the way he/ she observes the client's anatomy and assists them to get a beautiful silhouette to their garment also discussed choosing the right fabrics and the construction, the proportion of the garments as well as guides them in the path of the sartorial world.

Every Bespoke house has various types of exceptionally well-made fabrics with beautiful designs and patterns, besides, they can also make fabrics to our expectations, however, the world's top Bespoke house still conserves some exceptional vintage fabrics as well.

Nevertheless, each Bespoke houses have its distinctive style in making the garments also some bespoke house still do every process by hand (hand stitch) and some of them use the machine even only for a few works, otherwise, predominantly do everything by hand.

After the consultation and choosing the fabrics then they start to measure their clients precisely then they move on to create a new paper pattern based on the client measurements, and do you know? this is the iconic and exciting part of the bespoke tailoring process because they create that paper pattern from scratch for each client then they double-check the measurements (conserve the pattern in their archives) then only the head cutter/ cutter begins to cut the fabric along with the patterns, and then the fabric is sent to the tailors; in the Bespoke atelier each tailors specialised in making of specific garment like coat maker, trouser maker, shirt maker and now the fabric starts its journey to become a garment.

The fittings; for Bespoke garments generally take three to four fittings also depending on the client and they begin with a baste fitting which is the first fitting with an unfinished garment and then the second and third fittings for the meticulous rectifications. 

Actually, the bespoke garments will take four to six months to entirely finish, and certainly, you would indulge in the bespoke process and the craftsmanship, eventually, the beauty and the longevity of the bespoke garment will travel with you for decades.

Relatively, the Bespoke process is quite the same for whether you commission a bespoke suit, shirt, shoes, etc.

Let us move on to the Made-To-Measure (MTM) process is also quite similar to the bespoke, like the way of measuring the client and choosing the fabric and observing the client's specifications but it is distinguished from the making process and fittings which is the pattern creation; in the made-to-measure uses to make with pre-existing patterns and modified to based on the client's measurements also the fittings are one or two fittings, besides, mostly the made-to-measure measurement taken by the company representatives then he/ she then they sent to the factory and there the entire garment is made by machine at the same time some specific elements of the garment will be made by hands as well. And now the MTM is available online; you are supposed to choose the brand and go to their website then you could choose the fabric and the style of the garment that you want to make and eventually you could take virtual measurements and straight away they start to make your garment in their factory, besides, it's also applicable for made-to-measure shoe making as well.

Therefore, now we move on to the Made-To-Order (MTO), this term is more familiar with shoe production companies (shoe makers), but it also contributes to the garment-making process as well.

It's quite similar to ready-to-wear because this process wouldn't take any measurements, rather than you could choose the garment if you know the exact size, besides, you could modify some elements of the garment to your wish.

However, then what does mean Ready-To-Wear (RTW)? It's very simple; the garment is designed by a designer and they are entirely made by machines with mass production, also relevant to the world of fashion, and we could buy via online or perhaps go to the shop and choose the right size, colours and designs of the garment and buy it, within a few movements it will come to your wardrobe.  

I hope it will help you to understand the distinguished differences between the RTW/ MTO/ MTM/ Bespoke.


Cheers gentleman



Vickens

I'm a menswear columnist, classic menswear enthusiast, and curious about tailors, shoemakers, artisans & classic style lovers, and I assist you to enhance your extensive knowledge about men's clothing, accessories, and the way of styling your outfit and care for your wardrobe.

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